Guide to Solo Trekking Mallorca's GR221 Dry Stone Route - Deià to Port de Sóller
Originally posted February 1, 2020
This was one of those days when nothing (and I mean NOTHING) goes quite according to plan…
…but, somehow, ends up so much better than you ever could have anticipated.
…When you feel sweaty and sore and happy and inspired... a weird combination of physically drained and mentally recharged... and, at the end of the day, really freakin’ proud of what you’ve accomplished. Those days that remind you what your body is capable of. That give you new battle scars, a head full of memories, and plaster a silly little grin all over your face.
Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route from Deiá to Port de Sóller was a HUGEEEE challenge... especially since I did it solo... in the middle of the day... and had a REALLY rough start involving a few brambley bushes. Even though it was tough, and didn’t go AT ALL as I’d imagined, it ended up being THE best thing I did while I was in Mallorca.
NO RISK/NO MAGIC - and this day spent solo trekking through the olive groves of the Serra de Tramuntana was a magic one indeed.
What is the GR221?
The GR221 Dry Stone route, or Ruta de Pedra en Sec, is the most iconic hike/trek in Mallorca. The old trading route runs along the island’s west coast through the Tramuntana mountains and stretches 168.4km all the way from Port d'Andratx to Pollença.
Ideally, I would have LOVED to do the full route with a backpack and either camped or stayed at guest houses along the way… but, since I was housesitting in Palma and short on time, this wasn’t an option. Instead, I opted for a day trip and solo trekked the 9.3 km section from Deià to Port de Sóller… and, even though there are few other times I can recall being so exhausted, I can honestly say it was one of the best things I did all summer.
See more: Photo Diary - Deià to Port de Port de Sóller on the GR221 Dry Stone Route
NOW FOR THE PRACTICAL BITS…
Getting There
By Car
Renting a car is a popular way to get around Mallorca, but by no means necessary… especially if you plan on trekking. If you have rented a car, you can always drive to your starting point, trek, and then take the bus back when you’re finished!
Taxi fares aren’t TOO terrible, especially if you’re splitting the cost among multiple people. Regardless, you’ll probably end up spending way more on a cab than you would on public transport.
By Bus
Since this is a one-way trek, I’d recommend using public transportation. Buses on the island run frequently and are extremely budget friendly. Though you’ll have to sacrifice a bit of freedom and plan your day around the bus timetables, it’s worth it to avoid the added expense of parking (which, from what I’ve heard, can be quite expensive).
To get to Deià from Palma, take bus 210 at the Estació Intermodal.
Tip: I looked for the bus stop outside the station for so long that I nearly missed it. Don’t make that mistake! Go directly down the escalator to the station and walk to the right. You’ll see another set of escalators that lead downstairs to the buses. Make sure you arrive early because the buses are extremely punctual and there may be a line. If the bus fills up you’ll have to wait for the next one.
At the time of writing this article, bus 210 leaves every 30 minutes, so waiting won’t the WORST thing ever… but, still, not ideal.
The trip from Palma to Deià takes about 47 minutes. Single tickets cost €2.95 (or €1.50 with the Youth Card… more on that in a second) and can be paid for on the bus, but only with small bills or coins (€20 or less).
From Port de Sóller or Sóller back to Palma, take bus 211. The trip takes around 45 minutes to an hour and will cost you €4.45 or €4.05 respectively (or €2.25/€2.05 with the Youth Card).
Be sure to check the transit site’s website for the most up to date information regarding times and ticket prices!
Protip! - Get a youth travel card
If you are between the ages of 12 and 30, you’re eligible for the transit system’s Youth Card. This card will save you a considerable amount of money if you plan on using public transportation frequently, and registration is super easy. Just bring your passport to the Intermodal Office at the station, fill in the application form, and your card is issued on the spot.
The Youth Card allows you to get 50% off single ticket prices until your 31st birthday. All I had to pay was a small fee at the office for them to make a photocopy of my passport… which was more than worth it given the money it saved me on bus fares.
What to Expect
Along the route, there are:
Maps and markers like the ones pictured to help you along your way.
Bramble bushes… 10/10 would not recommend walking through these. It might SEEM like you’re going in the right direction… but you’re not, sis… turn around before you scrape up your leggies.
A few points where you’ll need to walk along the road… so keep an eye out for traffic and cyclists. That being said, for the most part, you’ll be safely walking along a trail (…a dry stone trail to be exact) where you can expect to see lots of olive groves, donkeys, mountain views, seascapes, and massive farm houses.
Expensive (but totally worth the 3 Euros) glasses of fresh squeezed orange juice. I saw a basket of oranges on a staircase by the trail… walked up to snap some photos and stumbled upon a cute little hut serving up some serious views and the priciest (and tastiest) glass of orange juice I’ve ever had. Yes, three Euros is a lot… but it was so refreshing I did not even mind.
Views for daysssss.
Full Photo Diary: Deià to Port de Port de Sóller on the GR221 Dry Stone Route
When to Go
I can’t imagine there’s ever really a bad time for this trek, but that depends entirely on your preferences when it comes to the weather. Regardless, there’s no such thing as bad weather… only improper attire… or however the saying goes.
I did the trek in mid-September (in the heat of the day)… and, while this wasn’t the best call, it was my only option. Spring or fall are probably more ideal temperature wise… but summer is pretty great also. You can pop down to the beach along the way to cool down or reward yourself once you reach Port de Sóller with a swim and a drink at one of the seaside bars.
What to Pack
This again obviously depends entirely on your personal preferences (and the time of year)… but, generally speaking, here are a few essentials:
Food and Water
HYDRATION IS KEYYYY! Bring lots of water with you… and also snacks.
There are a few random guesthouses (and a single OJ hut) along the route, but not many… especially between cities… which is basically the whole route, so you'll need to bring all the food and drinks you want to have for the day with you.
Comfortable Walking Shoes
Again, kind of a no brainer. I saw a few people on the trail decked out in full hiking gear (poles and all), but that really isn’t necessary. I managed with a pair of good trainers.
Sun Protection
Wear a hat, sunscreen, reapply often… Especially if you’re trekking in the summer. I did and I had still absolutely roasted and was rocking a wicked backpack tan line by the end of the day.
The weather changes quickly here, so throw a poncho in your pack just in case!
Camera, Map, and Battery Pack
Whether it’s your phone or a camera, you’ll want to bring something to capture the beauty of this seaside trek through the mountains and olive groves… and just in case you get so wrapped up in the views that you lose your way, you’ll want to have a map.
Though the trail is extremely well marked (and almost fool-proof), finding the starting point was a bit difficult, and I still somehow managed to stray a couple of times throughout the trek. Thankfully, I downloaded an offline map from Outdoor Active that helped me find my way/get back on track (Screenshot of map [and my dying phone battery] pictured).
…And *speaking of dying phone batteries* if you are using your phone for photos and navigation, you’ll definitely want to bring along a charger and extra battery packs to keep that baby juiced up!
Swimsuit
If you go in the summertime, this is a must. There are some great swimming spots along the trail (if you don’t mind a detour to the sea)… and of course once you get to Port de Sóller.
Would I do it again?
A million times yes! Abso-freakin-lutely! But with more snacks next time…
This section only took about 5 hours and is a really small taste of the GR221. I hope to return to Mallorca some day in the future to cover the full route, but until then I’ll keep dreaming of these lush views.
Check out the full Photo Diary: Deià to Port de Port de Sóller on the GR221 Dry Stone Route
Have you trekked the GR221? What did you think?
Let me know in the comments below!
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