Originally posted December 22, 2019

After a short bus ride from Budapest, (a very welcome change after two long, overnight journeys in the previous week), we arrived in Ljubljana. The Slovenian capital, pronounced “Lyuu-blee-aah-nyah,” was the fourth city on our Christmas market trip with Urban Adventures, and the destination I knew the least about. Though we didn’t manage to go on a tour with the UA team while we were in town, that didn’t stop us from taking to the streets on our own.

I was so surprised by this funky, festive, and unique little town, and am so glad we kept it on our itinerary after tour plans fell through. If you’re visiting during the holiday season, you are in for a treat!

Here are some things to know before you go - plus the festive events, sights, and local foods + drinks you’ll want to experience for yourself

Watch Now: Christmas Markets of Ljubljana

Slovenia’s Green Capital

If I’m being totally honest, before arriving in Ljubljana, I knew very little about it… including (shamefully) how to pronounce its name. Having zero clue what to expect about a place is a little unnerving, but it also made exploring the city that much more fun!

TURNS OUT, ALL OF MY WORRIES WERE IN VAIN.

After a bit of research I found that not only Slovenia is considered one of the safest countries in the world, but its capital is also one of the greenest and most sustainable cities in Europe.

In 2008, the entire city centre became car-free which has led to a decrease in traffic, pollution, and (to the surprise of concerned business owners) increased business and tourism. Ljubljana was named Europe’s Green Capital in 2016 and has won a number of other titles and awards for its efforts in sustainability and smart tourism.

All in all, Ljubljana has a lot going for it, and, in terms of cities to visit in Europe, it remains pretty underrated. If you’re interested in history, architecture, art, and outdoor activities, Ljubljana ticks all of the boxes… BUT I DIGRESS - BECAUSE YOU’RE HERE FOR THE CHRISTMAS MARKET SHPEEL… and, to my surprise, Ljubljana was a great place for that, too!

Holiday Festivities

Prešeren Square

Prešeren Square is the heart of Ljubljana’s historic old town and the site of three of the most iconic attractions of the city - the pink facade of the Franciscan Church, the France Prešeren monument, and the Plečnik`s Triple Bridge.

The central square is where everything’s happening… particularly during the holidays. The main stretch of the city’s Christmas market begins here and continues along the Berg Embankment. A huge, sparkling tree towers over the square and a beautiful (and extremely unique) display of holiday lights shine overhead… (but I’ll talk more about those in a sec).

Pro tip: If you don’t mind large crowds, come here for the first lighting of the tree and decorations (which typically takes place in late November to kick off the Christmas market festivities).

Ljubljana Castle

This medieval fortress on the hill is one of Ljubljana’s most popular tourist attractions, and, during the holidays, it becomes even more magical. Visit the iconic castle from late November until early January to enjoy Ljubljana Castle’s holiday events and performances.

For a full schedule of winter events, visit their website.

More Events

Several special celebrations and parades take place around town during the holidays like the St. Nicholas Day parade on December 5th. The parade (which typically begins at Ljubljana Castle) is a great opportunity to experience the Slovenian folk tradition of St. Nicholas… (which is justttt a bit different from the commercial “Santa Clause” many people are accustomed to).

In this traditional parade, St. Nicholas isn’t accompanied by elves or reindeer. Instead, he’s followed by angels and devils. The angels give sweets to the children who have been nice while the devils scare the naughty ones (and their masks are TERRIFYING… so if I was a kid in Slovenia, I’d make damn sure to be on the nice list).

You can also check out the Grandfather Frost Parade on December 26th… andddd if you miss that, there’s another massive open-air celebration in the city’s main square for New Years!

Fun fact: Grandfather Frost is the Slavic version of Santa Clause.

Quirky Decor

The streets of Ljubljana are decked out with Christmas trees and twinkly lights as you’d expect… but don’t be shocked if you also see some chromosomes… or even eggs and sperm…

Zmago Medic, a famous Slovenian painter, has been the creative mind behind the city’s holiday decorations for the last two decades. Though he passed away this year at age 66, his memory lives on in the city’s one of a kind holiday displays. The DNA, stars, and galaxies above symbolize the universe and creation… and they made Ljubljana the most unique destination we visited on our entire Christmas market trip… by a long shot!

For the most part, the Christmas festivities are concentrated mostly within the main square… but, chances are, you’ll want to explore Ljubljana beyond that. Here are a few un-holiday related things to do while visiting the Slovenian capital.

Hunt for Street Art

Though it won’t be much of a hunt… Once you leave the old town, it’s pretty much everywhere.

Beyond the spotless, well-preserved facades of the historic city centre, Ljubljana’s buildings become a canvas for colorful grafitti and murals, big and small. The further you go, the larger and more frequent they become… until you reach Ljubljana’s art epicenter - Metelkova.

This autonomous art and culture filled area is filled to the brim with quirky art in the form of murals, sculptures, mosaics, and more. This is also where you’ll find Hostel Celica, Ljubljana’s prison turned hostel.

Hike to Ljubljana Castle

You can get to Ljubljana by funicular, the electric Urban train, or by foot… which I recommend. Just beyond the city centre there’s a nice trail leading up to the castle on the hill that begins at the narrow alley called ulica Reber and snakes its way up the hill. It’s not so much a hike as it is an uphill stroll, and, if you go in the evening, it’s a great spot to watch the sun go down over the city.

Pro tip: Drone with caution here - in Ljubljana in general and especially on this trail.

Since you’re in close proximity to the castle, it’s probably not a good idea to fly here, and according to a very disgruntled woman who we met along the trail, it’s illegal - (though our web searches suggested otherwise). Despite the fact that we quickly landed our drone and went on our way, said disgruntled lady seemed to be calling the cops on us and giving them our description. I had to take off my signature sleepy beanie to play it safe… if you know you know.

Have Cocktails with a View

For more city views, head to Nebotičnik’s rooftop cafe for a drink.

Nebotičnik, which literally translates to skyscraper in English, was the tallest building in the Balkans and the ninth tallest in Europe when it was built in 1933. Though its only on the thirteenth story, Nebotičnik Cafe is still one of the best places to get a bird’s eye view of the city.

Day Trip to Lake Bled

The chapel in the center of the lake is probably one of the most well-known images of Slovenia… and, when I realized it was just a short bus ride away from Ljubljana, it quickly went to the top of my list.

Winter isn’t exactly peak season for this part of Slovenia, which actually made it more enjoyable… because there was next to no one there. We passed about half a dozen other tourists while walking around the lake, but other than that it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves.

Unfortunately, cloudy conditions made it impossible to see the Alps in the distance, but the moody, misty conditions were still beautiful. The tranquil waters of the lake were disturbed only by the occasional crossing Pletna’s (wooden gondals), row boats… and the splashing ducks.

We were only here for a couple of hours, but it was still plenty of time to stroll around the lake. NEXT time I’d love to 1) hike up to the viewpoint on Ojstrica Hill 2) rent one of the row boats and go over to the chapel 3) visit the Bled Castle on the hill, and 4) go for a swim… weather permitting.

What to Eat and Drink

Ljubljana has a surprisingly big foodie scene, but, since we were only in town for a few days, we didn’t get to delve into it too much. We did, however, indulge our sweet teeth… (or is it sweet tooths? Anywho…you catch my drift)!

While visiting Lake Bled, we tried the area’s famous Cream Cake (pictured below), and also had Potica Cake. This sweet bread is one of Slovenia’s most popular holiday desserts and comes with a variety of different fillings. The most popular flavors are poppy seed, hazelnut, walnut, almond, and honey.

Wash these desserts down with some mulled wine (a classic) or a local Slovenian beer, wine, or liquor.

If you’re a fan of gin, you should also keep an eye out for Broken Bones Gin being sold at the Christmas market. We snagged a bottle of those Slovenian gin to take back to Sweden as a Christmas gift… though I wish we’d gifted one to ourselves, too!

Where to Stay

I never imagined I’d be spending the night in a Slovenian jail cell. I also never thought I’d be doing so willingly… but when I discovered Hostel Celica, Metelkova’s ex prison turned hostel, I was all like, “A night behind bars!? SIGN ME UP!!”

For a unique accommodation experience during your visit to Slovenia’s capital, you have to stay a night or two at this former prison… plus, if you’re on the hunt for street art, staying at this spot will put you smack dab in the middle of the most funky and artsy part of town.

Read More: A Night Behind Bars in Slovenia - Checking in to Hostel Celica

Getting Around

Ljubljana’s Old Town is pretty teeny when compared to most other capital cities… which makes it really easy to see and do a lot within a day or two. At our hostel, we were given a map that said how long it took to walk certain routes around the city, and I can’t remember the exact figures/times… but let’s just say even the longest route was super manageable by foot.

The city is very pedestrian friendly, and, since no cars are allowed in the city centre, walking is the easiest way to get around… anddddd just about the only way to get around.

If your feet get tired from strolling the Medieval streets, hop on the Urban train. This (literally green) electric train begins at the Town Hall on Stritarjeva ulica street and takes you on a circular tour of all of the main attractions. Tickets cost 8 Euros per adult and can be booked in advance on their website.

Need help finding your way? You’ll find all of the spots mentioned here pinned in the map below!