Originally posted December 19, 2019

At first glance, the city of Budapest was nothing like I’d imagined it would be.

The streets were calm, quiet, and just about empty. The wooden Christmas huts were closed and we were the only two people in the entire square in front of St. Stephen’s Basilica. It felt like we’d stepped into a ghost town, and I halfway expected a cinematic tumble weed to come rolling through at any moment… Then I remembered it was barely 5 am.

We had just arrived in town after an overnight bus trip from Poland (our second overnight bus within a week), and were very groggily making our way from the bus station to our hostel. Our first order of business after checking in was to take a big ole’ nap… so we set our alarms and had a nice little snooze to recharge before our tour of the Christmas markets that afternoon.

When we headed out later that day for our tour with Budapest Urban Adventures, I was relieved to find that post-nap Budapest looked much more like the lively city I’d pictured… and I felt more lively, too.

The sidewalks buzzed with people, and the once closed wooden Christmas huts were open for business. Everyone was in a festive mood… especially our local guide Judit. She gave each of us a ticket for the tram and we made our way to our first stop on our tour.

Though we were running a bit behind schedule, the timing actually felt quite perfect. It was just before sundown hour, and as we crossed the Danube River to the Buda side of Budapest, everything in sight was bathed in a warm, golden glow.

Through the rest of the evening, Judit took us to several of Budapest’s Christmas Markets and taught us all about Hungary’s festive customs and tasty holiday foods.

If you’re planning a trip to Hungary’s capital for the holidays, keep reading to find out all about the best Christmas market, most delicious dishes, and other things to know before you go!

Watch Now: Christmas Markets of Budapest

Read more at UrbanAdventures.com: Things to do in Budapest at Christmas

Budapest has several well-known holiday festivities, like the Christmas Fair at St. Stephen’s Basilica, Vörösmarty Square, and Fashion Street Advent. These are popular markets among both visitors and locals, so you definitely shouldn’t miss them… (and since they’re all located right in the center of the city, I highly doubt you will).

We visited all of these markets on our Merry Markets and Mulled Wine tour with Budapest Urban adventures, but my favorite was surprisingly none of the above. As a matter of fact, my favorite Christmas market in Budapest (and through my entire Euro Christmas market tour) wasn’t even on my radar until we joined Judit for our tour that evening.

Advent Óbudán - My Favorite Christmas Market in Budaepest

On the other side of the river, in the Buda side of Budapest, and far off the well-beaten tourist track, you’ll find Advent Óbudán.

Fun fact: This was the first stop on our tour with Judit… and also the spot where I realized I’d forgotten to put an SD card back in my camera. Sadly, the only decent photo I have from here is the iPhone shot below, but, the good news is, we captured more on film! To see more of the magic from this local market, check out this video.

This charming local market was simple, cozy, and just the right amount of crowded. It really felt like a traditional Christmas Market, and not just another over commercialized tourist trap.

A live band played music on stage right as we walked in, and, before I knew it, Judit had hooked her arm in mine and was swinging me in a circle to the beat. The world spun around us in a blur as she (attempted) to teach me to dance, and the only thing in focus was her joyful, smiling face. I’m certain we looked ridiculous, but I didn’t mind. I was smiling so big my cheeks went numb.

When the song ended, the spinning stopped, and the most charming little Christmas market came into focus. At the center there was a small ice-skating rink draped in twinkly lights, and a dozen or so wooden huts lining the square. I also spotted FOOD… and quickly bee-lined in that direction.

Once our bellies were full, our tour group split up to explore the market, (something other tour companies don’t give you the opportunity to do). Andrew and I wandered along the stall lined path towards a large and very unique wooden Christmas Tree. It was all lit up with multicolored lights and was even hollowed out on the inside for people to go in.

Had it not been for Judit, I likely would’ve written it off as just another pretty holiday decoration, but, turns out, this Christmas tree stands for so much more.

The Charity Tree is made entirely out of wood and has a hollowed out inner-space that’s a bit like a chapel. When the decorations are taken down at the end of the holidays, the wood is donated to families in need. According to the designers of the installation, “It represents the importance of the community and social awareness, not only because people traditionally gather around Christmas trees to celebrate together, but also because at Christmas, it is particularly important to think of the thousands of Hungarian families who have daily problems with heating during wintertime.”

The Charity Tree and everything else about this charming little market in the Buda side of Budapest brought me back down from all the holiday hoopla of the previous days.

It was refreshing to see a holiday decoration that so beautifully embodied the true meaning of Christmas in such a simple and compassionate way, because during all the hustle and bustle of the holiday season, it can be easy to forget what the season is really all about.

It may be a bit less convenient to get to, but, if you’re in town for the holidays, Advent Óbudán is THE festive celebration you won’t want to miss.

To learn more about all of Budapest’s Christmas Markets check out my complete guide on the Urban Adventures’ blog: Things to do in Budapest at Christmas

Festive Eats + Drinks

As with most Christmas markets, you’ll be spoiled with choice when it comes to deciding on what to eat and drink. The grub here is affordable… and it’s reallyyyy freakin’ good.

For something savory, try töltött káposzta, a Hungarian stuffed cabbage (and my personal favorite). Judit described this traditional dish in mouth-watering detail while we were en route to Advent Óbudán, and, shortly after arriving, my taste buds happily confirmed that it does in fact live up to its appetizing description.

To satisfy our sweet tooth, we tried traditional bejgli (pastries stuffed with poppy seeds or walnuts), a Kürtőskalács (chimney cake), and, of course, had something nice and warm to wash it all down.

When it comes to festive drinks you’ve got options. Go for a classic mulled wine, Krampampuli (Hungarian rum punch), or a shot of Pálinka ( fruit brandy), if you’re feelin’ feisty.

Where to Stay

While in Budapest, we stayed at Pal’s Hostel and Apartments. Voted 10th best large hostel worldwide in the 2018 Hoscar Awards, Pal’s is hands down the most conveniently located hostel I have ever stayed at… and I have crashed at my fair share hostels.

It is located so close to St. Stephen’s Basilica that you can literally see it from their main property. See photo below for reference: On your left - Pal’s… On your right - Beautiful Basilica + all the Christmas market action on the square.

The prime location also means that the hostel is only a short walk away from Deák Ferenc tér - the metro station where Budapest’s three main lines intersect. The central location made it easy for us to make the most of our time in Budapest and to see as much as we could.

If you’re travelling to Budapest (especially on a time limit/during the holidays), this is the best (and most budget friendly) place you could stay. Just check out the view from their common area!

To learn more about why Pal’s is a great home-base for your trip to Budapest, check out the full accommodation feature: Checking in to Budapest’s Most Convenient Hostel. RELINK!!!

Getting Around

It’s funny how in my own city public transportation tends to feel like a drag… but while travelling, I can’t get enough. I guess that’s how it goes – even the most mundane sights and activities become more fresh and exciting when you’re in a new place.

We used the tram and the metro to go a few places that were a bit further away like Széchenyi Thermal Baths and Heroes' Square, but, for the most part, since our hostel was so conveniently located, we were able to get around exclusively by foot.

Standard tram tickets (350 HUF for single journey) can be purchased at the airport, metro stations, and busier bus and tram stops. Tickets can also sometimes be purchased on board, but are a bit more expensive (450 HUF) and can only be paid for in Forints (with exact change).

To be on the safe side, (and to save yourself some money), look for the purple ticket vending machines instead. Validate your ticket on board and enjoy the ride! Easy peasy!

…And to make your trip even more easy peasy, I’ve pinned all of the places mentioned in this article (+ a few more Budapest must sees) in the map below!